Formulators in the trend-setting beauty markets in countries such as France, South Korea and Japan are pushing a new anti-aging active—water. Few compounds are more basic, yet today, water is being billed as the ultimate moisturizer. Luckily for beauty companies, water-based products have captured the consumer’s imagination, too.

The textures are also unique, following in the Asian preference for light gels. For example, the Givenchy Sparkling range is said to contain a combination of ingredients that effervesce or bubble on the skin (hence the name sparkling). This launch coincides with the Asian introduction during the past year of formulas containing carbonated water.  These latest water products can gently cleanse, deeply moisturize and add radiance in innovative new ways. The launches of skin care products specifying the use of water from a specific source are growing, and this column will briefly examine these launches.

According to Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insight analyst at Mintel, there has been a 78% increase in launches of skin care products specifying the use of water. Some of the most common claims for these products, include moisturizing, hydrating, botanical, herbal, for sensitive skin, paraben-free, dermatologically tested, time/speed, long lasting, hypoallergenic, vitamin-mineral fortified and anti-aging.

Here’s a closer look at some of the newest skin care launches based on good, old H2O:
Simple Cleansing Micellular Water—French women have been using these all-in-one makeup removing and skin cleansing products for ages. These waters are filled with molecules called micelles that pull sebum from pores. This water is gentle on the skin and it does not have to be rinsed off.

Perricone MD Blue Plasma Cleansing Treatment—This new release is said to contain supercharged micellular water. It’s a hybrid product of the brand’s Blue Plasma enzyme peel and micellular cleansing technology with anti-aging copper. It basically cleanses, exfoliates, conditions and tones the skin simultaneously.

Laneige Water Sleeping Mask—This Korean overnight gel mask restores skin’s natural moisture level with ionized water and ceramides. The product is scented with sandalwood and rose.

Dr. Jart+ Water Replenishment Cotton Sheet Mask—This sheet mask is like an instant bath for your face. It is formulated with moisturizers, chamomile flower water, water, witch hazel extract, marine collagen and cactus extract. All ingredients work together to leave skin feeling refreshed and quenched.

Smashbox Photo Finish Primer Water—This silicone-free primer water is formulated with electrolytes to increase moisture levels in the skin. It is also passed through a “positive energy field” during the production process, according to the manufacturer.

Aquareveal Smooth Talker Water Peel for Lips—This lip exfoliator is promoted for what it does not contain; namely, alpha hydroxy acids, enzymes or polyethylene beads particles, parabens, phthalates and fragrance.

Stila Lush Lips Water Plumping Primer—This product plumps lips painlessly by coating them in a cooling water-based formula that contains peptides and antioxidants. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind a conditioning balm that smoothes, adds volume and preps lips for color.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel—This hydrating water based gel is made with hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and olive oil extract to protect and nourish. It gets absorbed instantly and leaves skin feeling smooth.

What’s Inside Counts!
Not all water is alike. Composition depends on where the H2O was obtained—did it come from oceans, lagoons, glaciers, springs, spas, fruits or plants? These various sources of water differ in their mineral content and moisturizing benefits to the skin.

Plant waters are usually processed either by direct extraction under high frequencies or via evaporation technology or extraction using flash distillation; all of them carry traces of essential oils, mineral salts and trace elements. Generally, plant water manufacturers do not use maceration process in sourcing the waters because there is the potential for contamination if the water may come in contact with external water, solvents or preservatives. The water may not remain sterile.

According to Arnie Esperance, technical director at Gattefosse Company, their fruit waters, branded as Original Extracts, have INCI-designated names and they can be used from a few percent up to 100% in all kinds personal care applications.  All waters are colorless, have characteristic odor, are sterile and easy to integrate in formulations without heat. There are several kinds of waters available. He further added that, when tested for their in-vitro biological activity, original extracts demonstrated many anti-aging efficacy markers such as: boosting of growth factor synthesis, growth of human keratinocytes, inhibition of tyrosinase and hyalurodinase activities and inhibition of tyrosinase activity.

Water-based moisturizers are elegant, have good texture and good feel. Their primary drawback, however, is that they provide only temporary hydration, not any long-lasting moisturization. Water is necessary for the skin to maintain its flexibility, yet water irrespective of its source alone, will not increase skin’s moisture level. It can easily evaporate off the surface of the skin. A protective lipid coating is therefore necessary to prevent water from evaporating off the skin. Hence, moisturizers must have sufficient oil components.

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Navin M. Geria
Senior Technical Advisor and Principal
Doctors Skin Prescription
www.dspskincare.com

Navin Geria, ex-Pfizer Research Fellow, is senior technical advisor and principal of the dermatological research company, Doctors Skin Prescription (DSP), Boston, founded by dermatologist David J. Goldberg, MD JD and plastic surgeons William P. Adams, MD FACS and Jason Pozner, MD. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and most recently, Spa Dermaceuticals. He has earned nearly 20 US patents, has been published extensively and has been both a speaker and a moderator at cosmetic industry events.